How To Make A Kona Color Board

Today I want to share with you one of my most used tools - my Kona color board!

This is a framed piece of steel that has 340 little magnet swatches - one for each of the Kona cotton solids available.  I use this when I'm selecting color palettes for quilts and brainstorming projects, and it is SO helpful! 

Even if I don't plan on using all solid fabrics, these little chips help me narrow down which colors I DO want to use - and then I can use those to find matching prints from my stash or the quilt shop.

I made my Kona color board last year and I've been surprised at how often I'm using it!  I thought I'd share how I made my board and give a few tips for those of you who would like to make one too.

Here's what you'll need:

• Kona color card (here from Fat Quarter Shop, here on Amazon)
• Adhesive magnetic sheets (find here on Amazon, business card size recommended)
• fine point sharpie
• scissors
• 24" x 36" sheet of galvanized steel (like this one from Lowe's, about $10)  You'll want like a 30 or 32 gauge.  Anything thicker will weigh more and be more expensive.

• 24" x 36" frame (from Michael's or Hobby Lobby - use a coupon!)

Tip: I used these business card size adhesive magnetic sheets - it was the most economical.  One box of 50 will be enough for all 340 chips, plus a few leftover.  Alternatively, you can also use full sized sheets or rolls of tape, but you'll have to do the math to determine how many you'll need, and you might end up with a lot left over.


1.  Remove the glass from the frame and replace it with the metal sheet. Then replace the cardboard backing on the frame and it's ready to hang.

2.  Cut out each color chip with scissors, working a row at a time.  If the numbers or name of each color is cut off, use the fine point sharpie to write it in - you'll want the name and number so you can purchase the right colors!

3.  To help keep the chips in order later, I wrote the row number on the back of each chip, near the bottom where the magnet wouldn't cover it up.  

4.  Cut the magnetic sheets into (about) 3/4" x 1" rectangles.  Remove the paper backing from the magnets and stick a magnet to the back of each chip. Press in place.

5.  Have fun arranging them on your new board! 

Here are some FAQ that I get asked about my Kona color board:

1.  Why Kona solids?  Why not another brand?

 Yes, there are other solids available, and I do use a variety (usually Kona, Moda Bella solids, and Riley Blake Confetti Cottons) but for my board I chose to use just Kona chips.  Here's why:

• They have 340 different colors.  I can ALWAYS find the colors I need.
•  Kona solids are the easiest for me to find & purchase locally
• The Kona color card is backed with cardstock and is ready for cutting.  

You CAN make a similar board out of a Confetti Cotton color card or a Moda Bella color card, but you'll have to first mount each little fabric square onto cardstock and then add the magnet.  


2.  Can't I just use a magnetized white board? 

Yep you can!  I have a magnetized white board in another room and I tested it out - works great!  I went with the metal because I wanted it to coordinate with the two white-framed cork boards I already had on that wall.  

If you use a white board, I suggest this one on Amazon but any magnetic dry erase / white board will work.  There's definite benefits to using a white board - it might be cheaper, it will weigh less, won't reflect the light as much as the metal, and you can re-purpose it later to keep track of WIPs or other to-do items. 


3.  Can I use a smaller size frame?

I recommend 24" x 36" , but smaller size would probably work.  I think the chips would all fit on a 24" x 24" board but you'll have less space between rows and no space on the end for saving favorite color combos like in the photo below.  I use that open space all.the.time.

3.  I don't have the wall space for a board like this.  What else can I use?

Not a problem! Store the chips in a tray like this one, and then keep a smaller magnetic white board on hand for arranging and playing with the chips.  I do recommend using a magnetized surface when you're playing with color combos.  It helps to keep the chips in place there on your board for as long as you like.

I've also seen other quilters punch a hole in each chip and put them all on a large ring. But I knew I would want to be able to see all of the chips at once so this board version works best for my needs. 




So there you go!  Leave any questions below and I'll answer them as best I can.  

**This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission (at no additional cost to you) when purchases are made through links found in this post.

Christmas Patchwork Pillow Tutorial

I can hardly believe it's December already.  The days are just flying by and I'm still trying to put up the rest of the Christmas decorations!  

This week I pulled out our Advent Calendar and all of our fun Christmas pillows.  I wanted to add a new one this year so I grabbed some favorite Christmas-colored scraps and got to work.

I made a similar pillow to this one a couple of years ago but I wanted to update the colors for this new version.  And I thought I'd share how I made it!  Here's what you'll need for this 18" pillow:

Supplies
81 (2.5") squares
22" x 22" piece of muslin or solid white fabric
22" x 22" piece of thin batting
at least 6" coordinating print for binding
1/3 yard of coordinating print for backing
18" pillow insert

You will need 81 (2.5") squares.  I dug through my scrap bin and cut them to size, but an easy way to get these is to cut charm squares into 4 equal pieces, or to cut some squares from left-over jelly roll strips.  

Decide on a layout for your squares. You'll need 9 rows with 9 squares in each for an 18" pillow. I did a diagonal pattern alternating between the three colors (red/pink, aqua, green) but a random, scrappy pattern would be great too.

Sew your squares together into rows, then join rows.  I like to press all odd numbered rows to the left and even numbered rows to the right.  Then when I join the rows, the intersecting seams will nest beautifully.  

Layer the 22" piece of muslin, the 22" piece of thin batting, and the pillow top.  I like to spray baste for this step using some 505 Spray but you could also pin baste.  

Then quilt your pillow however you'd like.  I used my walking foot and did some straight line quilting using the seams as my guides.

This is what the quilting looks like from the back...

...and from the front.  Simple, clean lines helps the fabric really be the star of the show!  Trim the extra batting and muslin from the edges of the pillow so that it measures 18.5" x 18.5".

From the backing fabric cut two rectangles that are 12" x 18.5".  On one long edge of both backing pieces, fold under 1/2" and press, then fold under again and press. Stitch along the first fold line to hold it in place and create a nice, finished edge.  

Place the quilted and trimmed pillow front right side down on the table.  Then layer the two pillow backing pieces right side up with the finished edges overlapping in the middle of the pillow, and the raw edges lining up with the raw edges of the pillow front.  

Pin around the outer edges of the entire pillow.

Then using a basting stitch, baste around the entire pillow about 1/8" in from the edge.  This will hold all the layers together as you add the binding, and your basting stitches will be hidden under the binding.

From the binding fabric cut two 2.5" x 42" strips.  Sew them together end to end to make a binding and then bind the pillow as you would a quilt.  Add the pillow insert and it's ready to use!

Want to make a pillow that's a different size?  I have a guest post over at Diary of a Quilter today sharing my easy trick for making an envelope backing for any size pillow.  It's an easy-to-remember formula and I use it every time I'm making a pillow.  

#christmaspatchworkpillow #abrightcorner

Thanks for stopping by, and happy sewing everyone!
--Andy

Raindrop Drawstring Bag Tutorial

How does the saying go?...Necessity is the mother of invention?  Well that's how this bag came to be.  I needed a little bag that was quick to sew and was big enough to hold a handful of candy and I wanted it to have a unique shape.  It needed to have a wee bit of personality.  

And so the Raindrop Drawstring Bag was born!  These were so fun and fast to make so I decided to share a tutorial here with you.

First of all, aren't these valentine prints so sweet?  It's a little novelty line by Riley Blake Designs called Punny Valentine.  I'm using the teal print but there's also two different pinks plus a couple of other coordinating prints.  See more of them here.  

Alright - ready to make a bag?  Here's what you'll need: 

• A 10" square of fabric for bag **
• 1 yard of 1/4" or 3/8" grosgrain ribbon
• Bag template (download PDF here)
• Helpful tools: Coordinating thread, scissors, pencil, pinking shears, safety pin, iron

**want to make more than one bag?  
-- one layer cake square (10") makes 1 bag
-- 1 fat quarter can make 4 bags
-- 1/4 yard of fabric can make 4 bags

Step 1:  Cut your fabric into two rectangles measuring 5" x 8 1/2"

Step 2:  Decide which end is the bottom of the bag (if you're using directional prints this is important!)  

With a pencil, trace the bag shape onto the wrong side of one of the rectangles.  Really you'll only need to trace the curved bottom edge of the bag since the straight edges of the template will line up with the top and sides of the rectangle.  

Stack both fabric pieces together and cut along the lines with scissors.  

Step 3:  On the wrong side of one of the pieces, make a small marking at 2.75" from the top edge and at 3.5" from the top edge of the bag.  Make the same marks on the opposite edge of the same bag piece.  These markings tell you where to stop and start sewing and will create an opening for the ribbon to be inserted at a later step.  

Step 4:  Along the top edge, fold down 1/2" and press.  Then fold over again 1 1/2" and press.  Press both bag pieces.

Step 5:  Unfold top edge and place the two bag pieces right sides together. Pin together along the sides and bottom.

Step 6:  Using a 1/4" seam, stitch around the sides and bottom of bag, leaving the area between the marked lines open.

Step 7:  With the pinking shears, trim the seam allowance around the curved bottom edge of the bag.  Clip close to the seam, but be careful not to clip through the seam!

Step 8:  Turn bag right side out.  On the inside of the bag, run your finger along the bottom inside seam to gently push out the fabric along the curved edge.  Then lay the bag flat and give just the bottom of the bag a quick press to make that curved edge nice and smooth.    

Step 9:  Fold the top edge under 1/2" along the pressed fold line and then again 1 1/2" along the pressed fold line.  Use a couple of pins to hold it in place.

Step 10:  On the inside of the bag, stitch around the bag opening close to the first folded edge.  Then stitch a second time 5/8" from the top edge.  This will create a channel for the ribbon.

Step 11:  Cut two lengths of ribbon, each 17" long.  Place a safety pin at one end of one of the ribbons.  The pin will make it easier to guide the ribbon through the channel.   

Push the pin through the opening on one side of the bag.  Thread the ribbon around the entire bag, having it exit out the same hole it entered.  

Remove the pin, knot the ribbon ends together and trim with pinking shears to keep them from fraying.

Step 12:  Place the pin on the end of the second ribbon.  Thread that ribbon through the hole in the opposite side seam of the bag.  Push the ribbon around the entire bag, having it exit the same hole it entered.  Remove the pin, knot the ribbon ends and trim ends with pinking shears. 

There should be a knotted ribbon on each side of the bag.  Pull the ribbons to cinch the bag closed.

Your bag is done! Fill it with candy, earbuds, jewelry, more candy, a gift card....whatever!  

Here are my four bags together. I must warn you - these are fast and fun and a little addicting.  I really just needed one bag but these prints all looked so good together so I just kept going!

Want to save this for later?  Pin the image below to your Pinterest board so you can find it when you need to.  And if you make a bag I'd love to see it!  Tag me (@abrightcorner) and use the hashtags #raindropdrawstringbag and #abrightcorner.  

Happy sewing, and enjoy your weekend!

--Andy

A Tote Bag + Fruitful Pleasures Fabric

Hey everyone!  

I'm just popping in to share a couple of quick tote bags that I whipped up over the weekend. 

I used my French Market Tote Bag tutorial (click here for tutorial), and the first one sewed together quickly so I decided to make another!

The fabrics for these bags are prints from the Fruitful Pleasures fabric line.  It's designed by Lila Tueller (Riley Blake Designs) and it's filled with lovely, saturated colors and pretty florals.  

For one bag you'll need:
1/3 yard main bag print
3/4 yard bag liner & handles
18" x 45" piece of interfacing

For the stabilizer I used my favorite - Pellon Decor-Bond Fusible Interfacing (Pellon 809).  It provides great structure without being as puffy as a fusible fleece.  I buy yards and yards of it when it's on sale at JoAnn so I always have some on hand.

And in case you're wondering about how the Pellon 809 holds up, I've been using my first French Market Tote for over a year and a half now and it looks as good as the day I made it.  It comes with us to church each week and sometimes takes a beating as we pack it full of things.  But it still holds it's shape and isn't showing any wear & tear.  

Here's the second tote bag I made, this time with a fun, fuchsia lining. It really pops against the navy floral, doesn't it? I love using a contrasting fabric for the bag liner!

The finished tote bags measure 11"(H) x 14" (W) x 3"(D)

You can find the French Market Tote Bag tutorial here.  And if you make a tote bag I'd love to see it! Use the hashtags #frenchmarkettote and #abrightcorner so we can all see what you've created!   

Happy sewing!

--Andy